One of the frustrations of pre-fall (we won’t even get into the scheduling issue) is seeing it in the dead of winter—several months before the clothes are available in stores on top of that—and wanting to rip the fur-lined coats, perfect pants, and thick-knit sweaters right off the racks and onto your body. It’s small wonder things didn’t come to that at Céline’s pre-fall presentation. Phoebe Philo’s collection, inspired by boys and girls of the 1950s British underground scene, was thoughtful, cool, and totally covetable—three adjectives that are starting to become running themes in the designer’s work. The majority was menswear-inspired, even if most men may look a little silly in metallic cigarette pants with tuxedo stripes or boxy button-ups in patchwork color-blocking. (Women won’t.) Philo also astutely turned tradition on its head, showing plenty of tartan, cable-knit, and tweed in innovative shapes. Houndstooth popped up as a print on a silk, button-back blouse; an ivory cable-knit sweater with asymmetrical hem had a shock of bright white cotton at the end of the sleeves; and one oversize tweed jacket had zippers at the shoulder (the zip-off sleeve/hem/collar is definitely shaping up to be a pre-fall trend). A wool felt, knee-length jacket was treated with iridescent PVC panels so that it glimmered green—you know, the color of envy.
--Review by Emily Holt from Vogue US.
images and review via vogue.com
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